Home Inspection Checklist for Buyers: What to Look For and What Inspectors Miss
A home inspection is your one chance to discover what's actually wrong with a property before you commit to buying it. But here's what most first-time buyers don't realize: a standard home inspection is a visual examination. Inspectors can't see inside walls, under foundations, or through the things the seller strategically covered with furniture and fresh paint.
This home inspection checklist for buyers covers what to check yourself during viewings, what to expect from a professional inspection, the things inspectors commonly miss, and exactly what questions to ask when you get the report back.
What to check yourself before the inspection
You don't need to wait for a professional to spot some of the biggest red flags. During your viewings, check these yourself:
Exterior
- Grading and drainage. Water should flow away from the foundation, not toward it. Walk the perimeter and look for pooling water, erosion channels, or soil that slopes toward the house. Poor drainage is the single most common cause of foundation problems, and it's expensive to fix.
- Foundation cracks. Hairline cracks in concrete are normal. Horizontal cracks, stair-step cracks in brick, or cracks wider than a quarter inch are structural warning signs. Look at the foundation from both inside (basement/crawl space) and outside.
- Roof condition. You don't need to climb up — look from the street. Missing or curling shingles, sagging sections, and moss growth indicate a roof nearing end of life. A roof replacement runs $8,000-$15,000 or more. Ask the seller when it was last replaced and whether there's a transferable warranty.
- Gutters and downspouts. Are they present, intact, and directing water away from the foundation? Missing or damaged gutters cause water infiltration that leads to basement leaks and foundation damage.
Interior
- Water stains on ceilings and walls. Look up. Brown rings on ceilings indicate past or current leaks from the roof or plumbing above. Fresh paint on a single ceiling section is suspicious — it might be covering a stain.
- Water pressure. Turn on multiple faucets simultaneously. Flush a toilet while the shower is running. Weak pressure could indicate corroded pipes, undersized supply lines, or municipal water issues. This is especially important in older homes.
- The smell test. Close your eyes and breathe. Musty smells indicate mold or moisture problems. Strong air freshener or scented candles might be masking something. Pet odor that's soaked into carpet padding is nearly impossible to remove without replacing the padding.
- Electrical panel. Open it (or ask to see it). Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels have been recalled and are fire hazards — if you see either brand, budget for a panel replacement ($2,000-$4,000). Check that the panel has adequate capacity for the home (200 amps is standard for modern homes).
- Windows. Open and close every window. Check for fog between panes (seal failure), drafts, and smooth operation. Replacing all windows in a house runs $10,000-$25,000. Failed seals in double-pane windows reduce energy efficiency significantly.
- Cell signal. Check your phone signal in every room, especially the basement and interior rooms. If you work from home, this matters. Unlike most house issues, you can't fix poor cell reception.
What a professional home inspection covers
A standard inspection typically lasts 2-4 hours and covers:
- Structural: Foundation, framing, floor systems, walls, ceilings, and roof structure
- Exterior: Siding, trim, flashing, doors, windows, decks, porches, and walkways
- Roofing: Shingles or tiles, flashing, gutters, downspouts, and chimneys
- Plumbing: Supply lines, drain lines, water heater, fixtures, and water pressure
- Electrical: Panel, wiring type, outlets (GFCI where required), grounding, and visible wiring condition
- HVAC: Heating system, cooling system, ductwork, thermostat, and filters
- Interior: Walls, ceilings, floors, stairs, railings, doors, and windows
- Insulation and ventilation: Attic insulation depth, vapor barriers, and ventilation adequacy
- Fireplace and chimney: Firebox condition, damper operation, and chimney cap
Attend the inspection in person. Don't just wait for the report. Walk with the inspector and ask questions as they work. You'll learn more about the house in three hours with the inspector than in ten viewings on your own.
What home inspectors commonly miss
A standard inspection has real limitations. Inspectors are generalists doing a visual examination — they're not specialists, and they can't look behind walls or underground.
Sewer and drain lines
A standard home inspection does not include a sewer scope. The inspector checks that drains flow, but they can't see the condition of the sewer line from the house to the street. Tree roots, collapsed clay pipes, and bellied (sagging) lines are invisible until they back up. A sewer scope costs $200-$400 and can save you $10,000-$25,000 in sewer line replacement.
Get a sewer scope on any home older than 30 years. Trees planted near the sewer line, clay or cast iron pipes, and older neighborhoods with mature landscaping are all risk factors.
HVAC performance
Inspectors verify that the system turns on and produces heat or cold air. They don't measure airflow distribution, check refrigerant levels, or test the system under load.
If the home has a two-story layout, ask the owners or check yourself: is the upstairs significantly hotter in summer or colder in winter than the downstairs? Poor zoning and inadequate ductwork are common in older homes and expensive to remediate.
Ask the age of the HVAC system. Furnaces last 15-20 years. Central air units last 15-20 years. A system near end of life is a $5,000-$10,000 replacement you should factor into your offer.
Mold behind walls
Inspectors note visible mold but can't look inside walls. If the home has had water damage (past or present), consider a separate mold inspection. Mold testing involves air sampling and can run $300-$600, but mold remediation for a serious issue can cost $10,000-$30,000.
Radon
Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that enters homes through the foundation. It's the second leading cause of lung cancer. Radon levels vary by location — your home could have dangerous levels while the neighbor's doesn't.
A radon test costs $100-$200. If levels are above 4 pCi/L (the EPA action level), mitigation systems run $800-$1,500 and are effective. Many buyers include radon testing as part of their inspection contingency.
Pest and termite damage
In many states, a pest inspection is separate from the home inspection. In Australia, a combined "building and pest" inspection is standard. In the US, a WDI (wood-destroying insect) inspection costs $75-$150 and is sometimes required by the lender.
Look for mud tubes on foundation walls (subterranean termites), small piles of sawdust (drywood termites or carpenter ants), and soft or hollow-sounding wood near the foundation.
Questions to ask after the inspection report
When you get the report, you'll see a long list of items. Not all of them are equal. Some are maintenance tasks (change the furnace filter). Others are expensive, safety-critical issues that should affect your negotiation.
For every major item, ask:
- Is this a safety issue? Faulty wiring, gas leaks, structural cracks, and mold are safety issues. These are non-negotiable — they need to be fixed.
- What does repair cost? Get estimates. A "foundation issue" could be a $500 cosmetic crack or a $30,000 structural repair. You need numbers, not categories.
- Can the seller fix this before closing, or should I ask for a credit? Credits are often better than seller repairs, because sellers will hire the cheapest contractor they can find. With a credit, you control the repair quality.
- Is this covered by homeowner's insurance? Some issues (like a tree falling on the roof) are insurable events. Others (like a gradually deteriorating sewer line) are maintenance and won't be covered.
- Is this a deal-breaker? Some issues are so expensive or so fundamental that the right answer is to walk away. A cracked foundation with active water infiltration, a house built on a flood plain without disclosure, or major structural damage that exceeds the repair budget — these are valid reasons to exercise your inspection contingency and move on.
Country-specific inspection notes
United States: Standard home inspections are visual only. Budget separately for sewer scope, radon test, mold test, and pest inspection as needed. Inspection contingency periods are typically 7-14 days.
United Kingdom: A "survey" is the UK equivalent. Options range from a basic Condition Report to a full Building Survey (formerly "Structural Survey"). For older or unusual properties, a Building Survey is strongly recommended. Unlike the US, there's no standard "inspection contingency" — issues found in the survey are used to renegotiate the price before exchange of contracts.
Canada: Home inspections are similar to the US standard. In some provinces (Ontario), home inspectors must be licensed. In others, licensing isn't required — check credentials carefully.
Australia: A combined "building and pest" inspection is standard and typically runs $400-$700 AUD. If buying at auction, you need to complete inspections before auction day — there's no cooling-off period for auction purchases in most states.
New Zealand: A building report (building inspection) is standard. Additionally, you should get a LIM (Land Information Memorandum) report from the local council, which reveals building consents, zoning, and hazards. Meth testing has become increasingly common and important — contaminated properties require expensive decontamination.
Want a printable inspection checklist you can bring to every viewing? The First-Time Homebuyer Toolkit includes detailed inspection checklists for all five English-speaking markets, plus house hunting scorecards, closing cost breakdowns, and the questions-to-ask scripts referenced in this article. Print the inspection section and bring it to your next viewing. $14 instant download.